Hampden
House revamp delivers
By Fran Bellamy, Restaurant Critic
- The Republican
The Hampden House,
an eatery that's been around for
more than a decade, has undergone
a major identity shift over the
last few months.
The operation has a new name -
La Cucina di Hampden House and the
interior space of its Allen Street
location has been accorded a decorative
tweak. The agriculture implements
that once filled odd corners are
gone, we noted, and the photos of
Hampden as it was a generation ago
have been replaced with oversized,
gilt-framed mirrors.
A new chef, Miguel Figueroa, has
been brought in to run the kitchen,
and he's refocused the menu on contemporary
Italian cuisine. Thus La Cucina
isn't a red sauce emporium; tired
cliches like lasagna and stuffed
shells are nowhere to be found.
Instead, Chef Figueroa offers
the likes of Fettuccini Salmone
($19) and Tortellini di Giorgio
($17), a rich-sounding composition
of cheese tortellini and pancetta
tossed with nutmeg-laced balsamella
(white sauce).
Other pasta-based entrees on the
new agenda include Campagnola ($16),
a dish that features sweet Italian
sausage, wild mushrooms and herbs;
Shrimp Gorgonzola ($19); and a classic
Puttanesca ($14) served over linguine.
Swordfish Mediterranean ($22) is
typical of the seafood stylings
Figueroa prepares. It's served over
saffron risotto and topped with
a Mediterranean salsa.
As one might expect in an Italian
setting, veal dominates the "meats"
selection. It appears as a traditional
Veal Chop Milanese ($24) and also
gets gussied up in the form of a
Veal Chop La Cuchina ($26), a recipe
that calls for stuffing the cut
with prosciutto, spinach, sun-dried
tomatoes and smoked mozzarella.
Before-the-main-event selections
are equal parts predictable and
inventive.
Representing the former are choices
such as Shrimp Cocktail ($2.25 each
piece), Steamed Mussels ($7), and
Crab Cakes ($10).
Blackened Scallops ($9), with their
garlic-infused paprika sauce are
less everyday, and Bistecca Gorgonzola
($9) offers an array of beef, mushroom,
garlic, tomato and cheese flavors.
Figueroa also prepares a number
of classic Italian nibbles, like
Arancini ($7), rice balls stuffed
with sausage, shallots and cheese.
Appetites in a late August slump,
we decided to omit the appetizer
we usually enjoy and instead turned
our attention directly to entrees.
Bread had, of course, been provided
(every respectable Italian table
is supplied with good bread), and
we enjoyed the ciabatta rolls and
flavored oil provided.
A house salad is a $2 option at
La Cucina. A good value, it's a
plate of greens garnished with roasted
peppers, grape tomatoes, black olives
and artichoke hearts, and then dressed
with a savory balsamic vinaigrette.
Crazy Alfredo ($17) is a dish that
the menu attributes to a popular
Hampshire County eatery. It's one
of those "new wave" dishes
that blend ingredients from one
tradition with concepts from another.
It's fettuccine-based and sauced
with a Cajun-spiced alfredo. A layering
of chicken cutlets, sweet sausage,
salami and roasted peppers constitutes
a gutsy union of Creole and Italian.
Another of our entree choices,
Veal Giovanni ($20), was identifiably
Old World in its inspiration.
A veal stock enriched with Barolo
wine is the foundation of the dish,
which also incorporates veal scallops,
chunks of shrimp, grape tomatoes
and prosciutto. Bringing such disparate
elements together creates a medley
of appealingly vigorous flavors.
Served with "smashed"
red skin potatoes and julienne veggies,
it was an entree we'd definitely
order again.
La Cucina, it should be noted,
is fully licensed and offers a selection
of moderately priced bottles on
its wine card.
When dessert time arrives, the
staff at La Cucina brings a tray
of temptations by your table.
The evening we visited only four
choices were thereon arranged. Passing
on the carrot cake, we focused our
attention on the other three.
A wedge of White Chocolate Raspberry
Cheesecake ($6) was a brought-in
item, as was an individual Chocolate
Cake ($6) topped with raspberry
mousse.
Both desserts, which came our way
positioned on dinner-sized platters
and exuberantly decorated with syrup
drizzles, left us with little to
complain about.
We were particularly intrigued
by the restaurant's Lazy Man Cannoli
($5), an idea that turns the well-known
Italian pastry inside out.
Cannoli filling is spooned decoratively
into a bowl, and then garnished
with long shards of a broken-apart
cannoli shell, making a sometimes-tricky-to-eat
dessert user friendly. One simply
spoons up the filling, crunches
on a bit of shell, and enjoys.
In addition to the dinner menu,
La Cucina offers a selection of
hearth-baked pizzas. The specialty
pies, which are of the seven-inch
size, include variations like Mashed
Potato ($8), Mexican Fajita ($8.25),
and Gorgonzola Cheeseburger ($8.25)
as well as a "create-your-own"
option that draws from a comprehensive
list of toppings.
La Cucina di Hampden House has
an attractive outside terrace that's
a great spot for end-of-the-season
al fresco dining.
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